As a Company we are committed in providing the Highest Possible Quality Standards within our Industry, and continuously working towards raising the standards throughout the industry as a whole. We are equally dedicated to providing the highest degree of professionalism at all times in both our business practice and our workmanship. We promise honesty, integrity, fair terms and more importantly to our Clients REAL VALUE FOR MONEY in all aspects of the project.
Our technical knowledge of coating systems and technical problem solving go far beyond simply applying a coat of paint. See below for some examples of common problems
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Blistering of Paint on Plaster: May occur if solvent-based paints are overcoated with an emulsion paint in an area that suffers from condensation. It may be that the paint was applied in damp conditions.Scrape back to a firm edge all loose paint. Lightly sand the surface. Spot prime bare areas with a Primer Sealer, and use an Acrylic Eggshell for painting.
Flaking of Paint on Plaster and Masonry Surfaces:
Could be due to a variety of causes. - Could be moisture beneath the paint film or possibly paint has been applied to a greasy or powdery surface. Perhaps the paint was applied over a solvent based paint.Scrape back to a firm edge all loose paint. Lightly sand the surface If the previous coating was a solvent-based paint or gloss finish then it will probably be necessary to repaint with a solvent-based paint again.
Flaking/Blistering of Paint on Wood
Flaking/blistering of paint on wood is most commonly caused by moisture beneath the paint film. Knots in the timber can also lead to blistering. Flaking can occur if paint has been applied over denatured wood, dirt, grease, etc. Movement of the wood, particularly on joints can cause it to crack. This can allow moisture to penetrate the wood which in time can lead to flaking.Areas of flaking or blistering paint should be removed by scraping back to a firm edge using a paint scraper. Sand down to smooth edges. If the problem is extensive the surface should be stripped back to bare wood. All knots streaks should be treated Knotting Solution and then bare wood should be primed. Make good all open joints and surface with suitable wood filler.
Cracks in Plaster
The development of small cracks on inside plaster walls and ceilings is not unusual and is normally the result of drying out (in the case of new houses) or movement of the building. Large cracks that appear to be getting wider should be investigated by a building surveyor.
The amount of water vapour that air can hold is limited. When this limit is reached the air is said to be saturated. Most condensation in buildings is caused by warm moist air coming in contact with cooler surfaces. In houses condensation is most likely to occur in kitchens and bathrooms. Some forms of heating generate large volumes of moisture vapour, paraffin stoves being the most notable.Condensation is best prevented or controlled by providing good ventilation. Heating combined with good ventilation will reduce the problem. Special anti-condensation paints will provide short term relief, but painting alone will not cure the problem. Conditions within the building must be improved.
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Dampness in Walls
Where damp is a problem it may be due to a defective or missing DPC, broken or defective rainwater pipes and gutters, defective pointing in brickwork, unsuitable cladding, solid wall construction or other general building defects. The source of the dampness should be found and cured. The surface must be allowed to completely dry before painting. A shellac based sealer can then be applied prior to overpainting in the finish required.
Paint or Woodstain - Which is best for your project?
Wood finishes can be divided into four main groups:
Colours and preserves new or weathered sawn timber. Cannot be applied over any film build coatings i.e. all the other wood finish categories listed below.
High build coatings which obliterate the underlying surface i.e. they are opaque.
High build coatings through which the underlying surface can be seen i.e. they are transparent.
Can be low to high build coatings which are either semitransparent i.e. they are coloured but allow the underlying surface to be seen or they can be opaque, obliterating the surface.
WOODSTAINS - IMPORTANT POINTS TO NOTE:
The final colour is very dependant on build (film thickness), number of coats and the underlying surface colour and texture.
Repeated decoration with the same colour of woodstain will eventually darken the colour.
When redecorating dark colours, it is often advisable to chose a light colour for protection of the surface without changing the colour too much.
Knots in timber must be treated with knotting when applying paint or opaque woodstain.
White (bleached) knotting must be used with water based coatings.
Where fillers have been used, colour will vary with the surrounding timber.
Efflorescence is caused by the crystallisation of salts found in building materials such as bricks. Remove fluffy efflorescence deposits with a coarse hessian sacking. Repeat the process every few days until no more appears. It is best not to use solvent based paints on new buildings for at least a year, as the substrate must be dry in depth.
The term "microporous" is often applied to specialist paints and stains for exterior wood: to describe a coating that acts as a barrier to liquid water, but allows water vapour to pass through. It is not correct to imply that coatings can be made so that moisture vapour can only travel through them in one direction. This is a complex subject - send us an email using the Information Request Form and we will be happy to provide you with information.
The ability to breath is vital to the survival of almost all historic buildings and the application of impermeable modern renders and coatings must be avoided at all costs. Send us an email using the Information Request Form and we will be happy to provide you with information.
135 Juniper Avenue
Glasgow, G75 9JP
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Sat: 10AM - 5PM